Here's some questions I've answered about vehicle braking systems. Maybe they can help you sort out your problem! If not, feel free to contact me!.

George

Probably just needs a front brake job. I know GM has them on all vehicles, and I've seen them on other makes: a little "wear indicator" (just a tiny piece of sheet metal bent over which hits the rotor before the pads wear out completely and go metal to metal.)

It's either that or a wheel bearing. Check out iATN.net.... I'm a member, and they'll have a member shop near you. I'm sure some member shops are better than others, but at least they are on the net and know where to go to get answers to the tough problems!

George
www.econofix.com

thanks!!!

pulled the tire, replaced pads on both and its doing fine

thanks! I wish you guys were in Texas!

Hello group! We have been seeing a number of vehicles with the complaint of rear brake noise ie. growl, grind, "hum" etc. This can occur on OE shoes, and also after a rear brake overhaul. Some of the noises come and go, while others are there all the time. We have used everything from the inexpensive type to the OE type shoes with the same problems. I don't believe it is an installation problem because we have seen OE do the same thing. We always make sure the drums are turned properly, always use new hardware, lube mounting pads, adjust properly. If anyone has found a cure, please pass it along to me. My techs are pulling their hair out! Thanks again!

Haven't had many rear complaints yet, but front ones sometimes drive us crazy.
I do always take a slow cut on stuff, use rubber bands, sometimes even hang chains on the tollholder when they start to sing. After, I always finish off with a back and forth motion of 80 grit paper to crosshatch the surface.
Sometimes they still make noise at times. The prob. I believe is the replacements for asbestos don't perform as well as asbestos. There's also been a shift to more metal in linings to increase heat transfer & dissipation. Full metal brakes (like phosphor/bronze on racecars) squeal like demons all the time: but the hotter they get, the better they stop. I just do my best, and then explain the "new, safer" brakes to them. I also tell them they last longer. (True, although the drums and rotors trash out sooner. Thus on my "rotor and hub is one piece" Toyota corolla, I always get the cheapest, softest pads I can find. I don't get 75,000 miles out of a brake job: more like 40,000 to 50,000; but I have done 3 brake jobs on it, turned the rotors each time, and still am within specs. Had I been running the premium metallics I would have needed rotors by now.) George Scott Economechanix

I own a 95 dodge ram 2500 V10. I need to get my roters turned but i cant seem to get them off. i was wondering if you could give any tips of tell me if i need to have a spesial tool.if you could help me out in any it would be greatly appreaciated. thanks, aaron

Is it 4wd? If so, the whole rotor assembly, bearing, and all is one piece! Look for a shop who cvan turn them on the vehicle: that's your best bet! Dodge didn't make this one a DIY type vehicle.

George

I recently brought my 1993 Ford Explorer (47000 miles) to the dealer to have my brakes looked at and ended up having my front brake pads replaced and the rotors reground. The cost was $480. Did I get ripped off?

Well, yes and no. If they didn't replace the front rotors or calipers, just put on pads, turned the rotors, yes you did get ripped off. The most generous time I can come up with is for a 4 wheel drive. Packing or replacing bearings, calipers, and turning rotors still only comes out to be 3.5 hours labor. Ford make pads shouldn't exceed $50. Unless they charge $100 per hour, $480 is too much.

Check your invoice: I suspect they replaced your rotors, calipers, possibly wheel bearings, as well as new pads.
Brake jobs are one of my pet peeves: shops around here advertise $39.95 brake jobs with a lifetime warranty. They then take it apart, charge $500. (See "Linda puts on the brakes" and "Linda gets a freebie" on my website: econofix.com) I tell folks $75-$80 if it doesn't need rotors, bearings, etc. Some folks say ,"why so high?" I tell them to go get a $39.95 brake job if you want to find out what high means!! Most all my front brake jobs go out for $75-$80! I really would be comfortable charging around $125 per axle for brakes, but these "bait and switch" guys keep the prices down! BUT THEY DON'T! Check out iATN.net... I'm a member.... there's a independent mechanic near you who is bound to be better than the DEAL-WHORE!

George

I was changing my brakes when I noticed brake fluid was leaking from my calibares (the thing that looks like a cup. My question is should I rebuild the calibares are should I buy new ones?

Rebuilt ones are so cheap, you probably would be better off going that way.

George

Hi, I'm experiencing a brake problem with my 91 cadillac Coup deVille. It seems to be bleeding off when I have light pressure on the brake. When there is hard pressure the brakes hold firm. Does this indicate a master cylinder or slave cylinder problem? Does this car have disc brakes or drum brakes? Any info would be appreciated.

Front disc, back probably is drum. If no fluid is being used (having to add fluid)useage, probably master cyl. bypassing internally and/or leaking.

George

>Greeting's : I am thinking about trying to do a "Front Brake Job " on my 1993 Ford , Explorer Sport. ( Pads & Rotors ). I've worked on Car Brakes before , but that was before all this "Air Bag " and " A.B.S. System " stuff came along. Question : Is there any thing I need to know about doing this brake job on a Vehicle with A.B.S. & Air Bag. ( sensors , widgets , gizmos , etc. ). Or is it still pretty much the same old set-up. ?. I would appreciate any helpfull hints or comments.

There's a "tone wheel" on each rotor: be careful when removing for turning the rotors not to damage this or the sensor. If you rebuild/replace the calipers, gravity bleed them. No "pump up and hold" on a dry system!

George

Q: What is the size of the caliper bolts or pins on the brakes of a 1987 cadillac sedan deville fwd? I have tried a 3/8 and 7mm, does anyone have any idea ?

A: Most every GM I've ever worked on had either a 3/8 or a 10 mm allen head pin holding the calipers. I have seen a few vehicles with torx fittings: I can't remember if they were GM or not. Torx fasteners are 6 pointed "star-shaped" . Almost every parts store sells allen and torx sockets.

If it isn't "star shaped" I'm 99% sure it's going to be the 10 mm.

Do make sure it's not a Torx, however: a regular allen wrench will fit in and hold slightly, but will destroy the pin. I have a 10mm, 8mm, 7mm, and 3/8" allen in with my brake tools, and also have a full set of torx, which I don't use on brakes that often. These have taken apart every brake caliper i've ever encountered.

Q: I drive a 1989 Saab 900 turbo and the brakes squeak when I apply them. How can I fix this? The sound is not to schrill but loud enough - the harder I apply the brakes the louder the sound.

I'm assuming you still have thickness on your pads (not worn out)
Ever since they eliminated asbestos form most brake pads, brake squeal has been an ongoing problem. Pad makers are constantly coming up with new "brews" for their pad material.

First, get brake pads from a well known source, like Raybestos, Ferodo, etc.

Second, make sure the rotors are resurfaced. When I resurface rotors I rub piece of sandpaper back and forth across the rotor surface while it is still turning on the lathe: this makes a crosshatch pattern which lessens the possibility of noise.

Third: make sure all the original anti-rattle clips and hardware are intact and in place: these are often left off or discarded during a brake job. Go by the dealer parts dept. and look art one of the parts manuals to see what if any anti-rattle clips were originally on the car.

Fourth: Many people use a layer of silicone, or even a piece of duct tape on the back of the pad. This secures and cushions the pad to the caliper and keeps it from shifting.

Fifth: Like I say, they haven't really found anything quite as good as asbestos, and brake manufacturers now say a "little noise" is "normal".

Q: I have a Scraping Raspy Noise when I Press the Brake Even When Car Isn't Moving? I have a 2001 Ford Mustang with 80,000 miles on it.

The main symptom is a scraping (kind of raspy) noise that occurs when I press the brake pedal deeply. The scraping noise occurs regardless of whether the car is actually moving and occurs when I am in the process of pressing my brakes to near floor level. If I only tap the brakes or press them halfway the noise does not happen.

When you're inside the car it sounds like the noise is coming from the upper brake arm. If you have a friend press the brake pedal for you, while you stick your head under the hood, it sounds like the noise is coming from under the hood on the drivers side. It does NOT sound like the noise is coming from the wheel area.

I’m guessing that I don't need new brake pads. I had the brake pads replaced about ten thousand miles ago. Plus, if the problem was the pads then I would think I would only hear the scraping noise when the car is moving and I’m trying to stop it.

What do you think?

Additional Details

If I deplete the brake vaccum (by pressing the brake while the car is stopped) then the rasping noise won't happen until I start the car again.

A: Assuming the noise is not coming from any of the wheels, it sounds like you either have a problem with the pedal pivot, the rod asembly going through the firewall into the power booster, or inside the power booster itself.

A steel or wooden rod can be used as a "listening stick": put it up against the booster, pedal, etc. and hold the other end next to your ear: it will amplify and isolate the noise.

for a non-contact listen, a length of hose or tube helps isolate the noise.

I have a noise library on my website: http://econofix.com/noiselib.html... It may be helpful.

Followup:

Thanks for all the detail. The problem ended up being the Master Cylinder.