The most common "drain" on a battery is the alternator, believe it or not. The diode bridge can fail and drain the battery: in addition the battery will not be getting fully charged, so it will eventually go dead. This defect may not turn on the alternator warning light (labelled BATT, ALT, or CHG or such, depending on what kind of car you have.) Assuming the alt. isn't the problem, other drains can be: Trunk light stuck on Dome light stuck on Glovebox light stuck on Aftermarket stereo installed by idiots (at least 1/2 of the installations I've seen qualify as idiot instaled, although not all them cause trouble...at least not at once.) Power windows and doorlocks Power seats If you're in the Gvl area, we would test as far as the alternator and the various lights for free with repair. Other chassis wiring faults would need at least $40 diagnostic time to trace, plus hatever parts or wiring harnesses needed replacing. But we could at least give you an idea free of charge. George Economechanix 376-5624
Make: chevy Model: celebrity Year: 86 Engine Size: diesal Repairs: wont start think i need wiring harness hard to find parts, have any sources for this diesal? any help would do
The harness should be largely the same as the non-diesel. Any variations should be able to be re-created. I custom build harnesses.
Key won't start truck or return after turning it to start. I bought a new key cylinder put now they think I need an acutator. How do I install or find the actuator?
I believe the key switch pushes a rod which operates the ignition switch further down the column. Look right above the pedals on top of the column: see if that isn't what they're talking about.
Engine Size: ?305?
Repairs: Dear Sirs,I am seeking free advise...
My husband has a 91 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4. Years ago when it was my father's truck someone tried to steal it but could not break the plastic panel to hot wire it. Recently his key has not been working. He has replaced the key switch but is still having problems. A mechanic told us that possibly when someone tried to steel it they damaged some plastic clip down in the steering column. I heard that people can get a print out of what the inside of the steering column looks like so that we may locate this clip. I have had no luck locating such a website. Is this something my husband could handle on his own? He does know how to work on cars/trucks but he has never had to mess with a steering column before. I know I am asking alot for free advise. There are just tooo many Chevrolet websites for me to check everyone by myself. I thank you for your time. Your website looks nice. I found it easy to work with, not at all confusing or difficult.
You need several special tools to get that column apart.
The cheap easy DIY fix would be to get a used column. That would be fairly easy to replace. It also would be undamaged: you never know what got bent, etc. when they tried to steal it.
Quick Question ! what are the rules for adjusting you headlamps ? I got a 1987 G-20 Chevy Van and I need to adjust the headlamps can you help me ? Thanks,
DOT REGS ARE: High beam: 0,0 both sides at 25 feet Low beam: 6"down, 6" right at 25 feet
Easy way: get flat surface facing wall. (careful! most parking lots are slightly graded for rain runoff) Measure up the wall and make a mark eq. to the height of center of lights.(masking tape works)
Adjust the high beams to 0,0 (straight ahead) Put on low beam and see how they look. If even and about 6 down and 6 right,you're done. If a little uneven, split the difference between high at 0,0 and low at 6,6.
i have a 91 acura legend when i drive it sometimes the D4 gear starts to blink and the speedometer starts to bounce all over the dash
Probably vehicle speed sensor. They had trouble with those that year.
I replaced the starter, starter relay, and negative battery cable on my Ford explorer. In doing this the truck started but the starter would not disengage. Thinking it was a bad starter I tried replacing it with another. No luck. Same thing, it would not disengage. I've exhausted every attempt at fixing it, that I could think of. If you have any idea what I may have done wrong please, please, please respond.
Starter solenoid is separate from the starter: Follow the pos. bat. cable: it should bolt onto a black cylinder with 2 big terminals and 1 small terminal. (starter solenoid) Disconnect small wire: starter should disengage. If not, solenoid is defective. If it does stop, ign. switch is probably the cause. Can't be the starter: solenoid cuts off all power to it.
Thanks for your help! You were 100% right! My Ford's back on the road!
I wear two hearing aids, and I am getting a constant very shrill clicking sound from this car. My husband is unable to hear this sound, but it nearly drives me nuts. I am not aware of this in other cars I ride in, and suspect it is from something electronicly. I wonder if you have any suggestions as to what might cause the problem. Please e-mail me at the following STGC73A@prodigy.com Thank you , Betty
No idea. There are some RF frequencies in a car, but shouldn't be picked up by a hearing aid. Try a piece of aluminum foil: move it back and forth by your ear/hearing aid. it will block or absorb RF waves. If it is electronic interference, this should make the sound change/disappear. (You'll be fine: just wear a foil bag over your head!)
There are a number of computer controlled devices which open a fixed 10 times per second, varying a vacuum, etc. by keeping the device open a longer or shorter time each cycle.
The hearing aid should be adjusted to amplify the frequencies which your ear has lost some ability to detect. It's possible yours is amplifying a certain frequency where you haven't lost much detectiopn ability: thus amplifying to an annoying level a noise not noticed by someone without a hearing aid.
Also: does the radio pick up any of this noise? That would be another case for RF interference.
Also, Also: Does it vary in pitch with engine RPM?
318 5.2L 4WD Fuel Injection If you start it, when hot or cold. It will run as long as you keep revving the motor. The check engine light never comes on. How could I tell if it's the Throttle Position Sensor. Just by relacing it?
Analog ohmmeter works well: resistance should be smooth as throttle is operated. Probably not the TPS: needto hook up a scan tool.
I have just purchased a 1997 Geo Metro Lsi. Everyday when I try to start it the key will not turn from the lock position. Sometimes it takes me 20 or 30 minutes of jerking the steering wheel REALLY HARD back & forth maybe 20 times for the key to finally turn. I took it to the dealer & they checked it out & said there is nothing wrong with the steering, tumblers or ignition. But, there definitely IS something wrong! Every time they turned it, it might catch a little but they turn the steering wheel lightly, & the key turns! I'm not stupid. It should not take me 20 or 30 minutes to get the key to turn. I have noticed that when I shut the car off, the wheel doesn't lock unless I turn it. Then, the key won't turn again. But if when I shut the car off & turn the key to lock, if I leave the wheel loose & don't turn it so it locks, the key will turn the 1st time. It must have something to do with the steering wheel locking mechanism. What can I do? What do you think it could be? Please help?
When you stop and the wheel locks in a "loaded" position, it's somewhat normal to have to "unload" it before the wheel lock mechanism will release. If, however, it won't turn for you even when you wiggle the wheel, there's another problem. I'd say to get a key cut "by the numbers" rather than by another key, but if it turns easily when the wheel is unlocked, a poorly cut key would not be the problem. You might have someone disassemble the wheel and lubricate and examine the wheel lock assembly. If you're in the Gainesville area, we'd be happy to look at it.
Dear Economachanix: I've got a 1985 Z/28 with a 406 small bkock chevy Im having alternator problem big time. My gauges are in the red with a new alternator, I've changed several times, with lights on or off.Can you give me the basic wiring for an alternator.Maby I can track this down. Thanks Greg
Should be the regular Delcotron alternator with 3 wires. The large wire on the back of the alt. goes to bat + The small brown wire on the 2 wire plugin connector goes to the idiot light. The larger wire on the 2 wire connector goes to 12v pos. either from the ignition switch, or can be powered up all the time. You should have 12v+ at both red wires, some pos. voltage at the brown wire with the switch on
I have a 1985 Monte Carlo SS, 29000 original miles, stored every Winter, and I do start it once a week. It started 3 weeks ago, now it won't start. Battery is fully charged, it will start by touching the terminals on the soloniod. I checked the purple wire with a volt meter, zero volts, checked all fuses in the fuse block, all good. Everything else works, lidon't dim when I tur the key, any suggestions?
The circuit is like this: purple wire solenoid "s" terminal to neutral safety switch. Purple, (believe I've seen pink and yellow too) from saf. sw to ign. sw. wiggle shifter while trying to start. Otherwise... time to trace wires..
>Make: FORD >Model: F-150 >Year: 1990 >Engine Size: 5.0 >Repairs: TRUCK HAS LOW IDLE,AFTER STARTING TRUCK STALLS
>The idle speed is controlled by the EEC 4 computer: I don't believe it is adjustable. If it just happens when the engine is cold, and is OK after it warms up, could be the temperature sensor. Otherwise, MAP sensors are really critical on Fordstuff: that's another possibility. I'd really need to see the vehicle, hook up a scantool to it, check for codes, etc. to tell you more. Checkout my article on engine control computers": www.econofix.com/computers.html also www.econofix.com/fuelinj.html
Thank you for visiting the ECONOMECHANIX WEB SITE. Please feel free to comment. We also serve the surrounding communities of Alachua, High Springs, Hawthorne, and Newberry! Gainesville has been my home since 1974, and I've loved Gvl and the Gators since I came here in the fall of 1974 to attend the University of Florida. I loved it so much I stayed and opened my car repair business. Originally it was out of the back of a 1963 Chevrolet wagon, but in 1977 a fellow mechanic and I opened an auto repair shop with actual walls, etc. I stayed in the same location for 26 years, and recently moved my operation to property I bought 15 miles east of Gainesville. I am doing most all the repairs myself now, having reduced my overhead from $1500 per month to practically nothing. I do work by appointment only. I mostly work only on my established customers cars, but I will occasionally take on new clients. E-mail me and I will either make arrangements to look at your car, or I will recommend you to someone who will.
George G. Scott, Jr.
ABS: Anti-Lock Brake Systems
ADVANCE: Car ignition timing
ALTERNATORS and Car Battery
BATTERIES: Auto, Car or Truck
BELTS AND HOSES
BODY AND BUMPER REPAIRS
BRAKE REPAIRS: Car or Truck
CARBURETORS:Car & Truck
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
CLEANING: Engine Cleaning
CLUTCH REPAIRS: Car & Truck
COMPRESSION: Car Engine
COMPUTER CAR CONTROLS
CV JOINT OR CV AXLES
ENGINES: Car & Truck
FUEL AIR MIXTURE
FUEL INJECTION: Car & Truck
FUEL PUMPS: Car & Truck
GAGES AND "IDIOT LIGHTS"
GASKETS AND SEALS
GLASS: WINDOWS AND WINDSHIELDS
HEADS & HEAD GASKET
HOSES AND BELTS
"IDIOT LIGHTS" AND GAGES
IGNITION TIMING: Car & Truck
AUTO JACKS: lifting cars safely
LEAN "Car runs lean"
LIGHTS: WARNING OR "IDIOT LIGHTS"
Limp Home Mode
NO START: Car Won't Start
OIL: What's right for your car?
OIL LIGHT ON OR GAGE LOW
RADIATORS: Car and Truck
RICH: Car runs rich
SEALS AND GASKETS
SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT
STARTERS: Auto, Truck
TIMING: IGNITION TIMING
TIMING BELT & TIMING CHAIN
WARNING LIGHTS OR "IDIOT LIGHTS"
WATER PUMP REPAIR
WINDOWS AND WINDSHIELDS